A summary of my travels between Apr-Jun 2020
Here is a taste of my time in Mexico during the peak of its Covid-19 outbreak. Many tourists, but backpackers in particular, complain that there are too many tourists when visiting many locations around the world. During Covid-19, I have experienced a swathe of Mexico without seeing a single westerner for weeks on end. I felt the initial signs of the virus outbreak while back in Mexico City with two hostels deciding to close their doors one day after checking in. Everyone was talking about the virus and researching their options. Flights were booked only to be cancelled hours later. To say that most were panicking would be an understatement. I would say that 95% of backpackers decided to go home to their respective countries. I understand everyone has different circumstances but the sheer panic fellow backpacker's were experiencing really surprised me. These are a crowd that usually think outside of the box, on this occasion, they were clearly inside it. Most were surprised by my decision to stay put and ride out the storm in Mexico. From my perspective, it didn't make sense to go back to the UK, even though the UK Government recommended doing so. The outbreak was more severe, it was cold and the prospect of 'lockdown', a polite political narrative and word for house arrest, was less than appealing to say the least...my mind was made up, Mexico would be my home for the next six months. As I live my life more on instinct than logic these days, I had a feeling that something wasn't right. To read more on my thoughts on the global plannedemic, head over to my recent article on fear. Since writing my Fear article, more data and information has become available. This has led me to conclude that we are at an early stage of one of the biggest scams, but importantly, crimes against humanity the world has ever seen. The motive is always the same, money and control. Money, by making global periodic vaccinations compulsory and a condition of travelling. Control, by requiring the same vaccinations and some form of digital identification to lead a normal day-to-day life. Sounds like a conspiracy doesn't it? These plans have been in place for decades with governments working with companies creating huge alliances.....welcome to the beginning of our dystopian future. Unfortunately many of my planned destinations on my itinerary for Mexico, had to be cancelled as the small beach towns in particular, were locked down and not accessible to outsiders with residents actually blocking the main roads into town. Hostels, hotels, restaurants, bars, museums and pretty much everything else were closed. I was able to travel mainly by coaches, although this also proved difficult due to cancellations and a lack of information. I sometimes had to travel backwards in order to move forward, but at least I was free to travel. I was able to walk freely and lead some semblance to a normal life, which compared to family and friends around the world under house arrest in the 'freeer' western world, was a liberty I cherished!Guadalajara (Mexico)
Mexico’s second largest city is located north west of Mexico City with commerce and tourism being its two main sectors and income generators; as well as being dubbed the 'Silicon Valley' of Mexico.
On the cultural side, it is known for Mariachi music, Tequila the spirit, and Birria, which is made with either pork, beef, or goat and slowly cooked in a secret sauce to resemble a meat stew. Another regional dish is tortas ahogadas. A sandwich in a bun that is usually filled with some kind of meat and then covered with a red tomato/chili sauce. It's soggy and messy to eat but easily will fill you up. Every street food stall and cafe will have their own take on this Mexico staple.
I stayed in the centro historico which is filled with colonial buildings, museums, galleries and squares....unfortunately all were closed, but I was still able to absorb its magnificence. The San Juan de Dios Market is the largest indoor market in Latin America and was a sight to see.
This is also a big university city with the University of Guadalajara taking centre stage.
Most of the city was closed but one night I headed to the hip Avenida Chapultepec area to the west of the centre. I was surprised to see a number of restaurants and bars open which I took advantage of on two occasions. The establishments were taking precautions with social distancing and gel cleansers. I went back another night to find it all shut down.
The hostel I stayed at also took precautions with cleaning etc....I had a whole dorm to myself for over a week.
San Pancho (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Sayulita (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Marieta Islands (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Puerto Vallarta (Mexico)
This famous seaside beach resort which is a big hit with Americans and Canadians alike was virtually deserted on my arrival. Hollywood discovered PV as it is known locally, in the 1960s with big names such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton being part of the jet set crowd. The beach and main walkway were cordened off with heavy fines of £150 for those choosing to ignore the ban......I did manage to sneak my way onto a quiet part to experience the sand between my toes one day!
The cobblestone centre, known as The Romantic Zone, grew organically from being a small fishing town. This is where I decided to stay for just over 3 weeks to further ride out the virus as Mexico was behind the curve compared to other countries. This area is south of the main walking parade known as El Malecón, which is home to boutique shops, restaurants and bars and nightclubs....I was fortunate to find one open restaurant with views out to the sea with amazing sunset's, margarita's and lobster.
Fortunately during my stay, there were enough restaurants, street food stalls (amazing fish ceviche tacos) 
and even one bar open to make life easy. Sunsets were amazing and could be viewed without too much aggravation from the Police. There was no official lockdown but as time progressed more people wore masks.....apart from myself. My researched view on mask wearing is probably enough for a whole new future article. Suffice to say, if masks are as effective as claimed, then all governments had to do was make them mandatory and the planet could have continued without closing anything or putting people under house arrest....this plannedemic is political, not scientific.
Manzanillo (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Zihuatanejo (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Acapulco (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Puebla (Mexico)
I decided to take a flight back to Mexico City and then a 2 hour coach onto Puebla as taking the coach the whole way was not much cheaper. Having experienced a few coach cancellations too, I felt I needed a change. The flight was surprisingly pretty full with distance seating between passengers. On arrival I was fortunate to catch the last coach to Puebla, arriving just before 10pm. The coach station was however too far for me to consider walking so a cheap £3 taxi ride brought me to my pre-booked hostel. Unfortunately on ringing the doorbell, I was told by a volunteer that the hostel had been closed for two months and so could not honour my reservation. I walked to another hostel , but that too was closed. A walk around the centre of town revealed that 95% of hotels were closed due to the virus. Eventually I found a dive of a hotel that had one last room to my relief. I ended up staying at the hotel (although changing rooms twice) for my time in Puebla as it was centrally located, had good wifi, a decent shower and comfortable bed....oh and it was cheap at £7.84 per night! The main plaza just a 5-minute walk away from my hotel, formed part of my daily routine of picking up a few too many pastries and coffee and sitting in the tree-lined square which is the focal point of this colonial city. No restaurants were open compared to Peurto Vallarta so I began to think I had made a big mistake in coming. Only a few coffee shops and street food stalls were open, this was enough to survive but in an unhealthy way. As the days progressed I would bookmark various other food options. For the whole 10 days that I was here, I did not see another Western person which surprised me. Puebla is Mexico's fourth-largest city and although big with a population of around 3.5 million people feels like a small town as everything is within walking distance. If you're into your churches and cathedrals Puebla is one of the places with the most in the whole of Mexico. Puebla is another World Heritage site since 1987 and is known for its ceramics such as plates, serving dishes, jugs and cups; with ceramic tiles adorning many of its older colonial buildings. A walk along 6 Oriente Street has a big selection of old school candy shops with the El Parián arts and crafts market being another popular way to pass away your day. A few other claims to fame include being home to Mexico’s most famous and active volcano called Popocatepetl and having probably the finest library in Latin America — The Biblioteca Palafoxiana. Not forgetting having the world's largest Volkswagen factory outside of Germany.....oh and a disco (showing my age just by using this word) catering to my era!
I really appreciated my time in this beautifully historic city. I was afforded enough freedom to feel normal and wonder around at will enjoying its cobbled streets with wall-sized art murals in some of its quirky neighbourhoods. I was also really happy to find a barber that was open after a long overdue haircut like most during this lockdown. It was an old-fashioned guy who was very smart and didn't use clippers instead scissors only and spent half an hour cutting my hair.
Oaxaca (Mexico)
A relatively short 5 hour coach from Puebla brings me to what turns out to be probably my favourite city. I was decided not to pre-book accommodation using my usual apps as my confidence of a confirmation being true had proved inaccurate in Puebla. Instead I walked around the city to see what was available. Hostel after hostel was closed as I had expected which then left hotels. The only hotels that are open were dive hotels, where spies in films normally stay, paying cash, not requiring registration and in the dodgy part of town. It took about an hour which included a stop to let a passing thunderstorm pass, before I found one suitable. This is why I always pre-book accommodation as I like to know where I'm heading and hate to walk the streets hoping to find somewhere, especially during hot weather, which thankfully wasn't the case here. What has become apparent, is that the posh parts of most cities with the nice hotels, restaurants and shops are all shut. Wandering around the poorer areas, where the small shops and street vendors were located were all open. This is because most people in Mexico live on a day-to-day basis. Pronounced (wa-ha-ka) — similar to the chain of restaurants in the UK; is yet another World Heritage city...I seem to be taking in a fair share of them lately! It is most famous for mezcal (similar to taquila), hot chocolate and grasshoppers which are eaten as a snack and called chapulines. While Puebla is a big city with pockets of cuteness inside the central historical district, Oaxaca has cuteness left right and centre in the central historical district with its cobblestone streets and beyond. While being a city, it has a small town feel about it, as the roads are not as wide compared to Puebla. My morning routine consisted of catching up with world affairs then buying some insanely cheap pastries and coffee and then finding a small square to relax.
The relaxing was somewhat lacking however, as I would meet up with an American retiree and we would have 3-hour heated discussions on global subjects.....loved every minute. My days were spent simply walking around the city with no planning in mind, taking in the beautifully different coloured buildings in yellows, greens, reds and orange. Visiting
the most well-known market of Benito Juarez and the Central de Abastos Market which is the largest in the state of Oaxaca. 
I could only enter with a mask on and would always have to wash my hands and often clean the soles of my shoes before entering. While I liked Puebla very much, I actually fell in love with Oaxaca very quickly and is my favourite place so far in Mexico.
Puerto Escondido (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
As many of the beaches I had planned to visit on the west coast of Mexico were closed due to the virus. I decided that on my return to Mexico I would go over my original itinerary.San Cristóbal (Mexico)
As Puerto Escondido was closed I decided to carry on my journey to San Cristóbal instead, which was a shame as I had planned to visit a friend I had met and played chess with in Laos. A night coach for £30 with a journey time of just under a 12 hours has me arriving at 10am to a wet and misty city. I waited a little while at the bus station for the rain to stop before heading out to find accommodation. I looked at a private room in two hotels, but they were both damp with mold and a musty smell.
Fortunately I came across a hostel that had a door open and asked to look around. I managed to get a bunk bed in a dorm in a much more clean and hospitable environment for just over £3pn. On my first wonder around town in the drizzle, I immediately fell in love with San Cristóbal, which I regard as the jewel in the crown of Mexico so far. The weather was understandable considering the city is 7,000 feet above sea level and Mexico had just entered the rainy season.
I immediately noticed there were a far greater number of westerners here compared to Oaxaca. It seems to be on many a backpacker's itinerary as hostels are a plenty and it has a hippie and trendy cool feel to it.
Many people were wearing Wellies or Wellington boots, so clearly it rains a lot and as I discovered some roads flood easily. I ended up staying for one week as I got to know my favourite coffee shop, which was full of long-term travellers from around the world. By the end of my week, I could see why people choose to make San Cristóbal their home.
Palenque (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19.
Campeche (Mexico)
Another night coach for £27, with a journey of 13 hours has me arriving at 6am. I decided to walk into the central historical district of town which maybe was a mistake as it was over a 35 minute walk to look for accommodation. I was fortunate to find another dive hotel, right in the centre of town, overlooking a beautiful square for just over £10 per night. I would suggest to anyone visiting that they stay inside the fortified walls which is the central historical district of this city. Located on the western side of the Yucatan peninsula, this beautiful colonial UNESCO World Heritage City is famous for its fortified walls, colourful homes and seafood, which unfortunately I didn't get to sample as everything was closed. Campeche is located by the sea, but there are no beaches which is probably why it doesn't make it onto people's itinerary and destination guides.
It's a shame, as it's a beautiful place to spend 1-2 days simply walking around the central historical district and the malecón which is the boardwalk that runs along the coast. This was one of the first towns I had difficulty finding food to eat, as all restaurants were closed. This was one of the reasons I decided to limit my time here to just two nights.
Merida (Mexico)
I finally had a much shorter coach journey to Merida of only 4 hours for a measly £4.65. My immediate welcome was a police car honking their horn at me and shouting for me to put my face mask on....not a great introduction to Merida. All the hostels I had pre-planned to visit were unfortunately closed. It was very difficult to find any hotel that was open.
I managed to find another dive hotel which only had cold water showers but a very nice courtyard after walking around for an hour. I quickly checked in and immediately went out to explore. Fortunately my dive hotel was just a few minutes walk to the Zocalo which is the historic centre. You can feel that Merida is full of culture, history and art by simply walking around despite everything being closed. This was another city that didn't allow the purchase of alcohol but instead would deliver it to your home or hotel for a £1 fee.
The temperatures were creeping up every day, often hitting 35 degrees.....after a few days, I succumbed to the cold beer delivery service. The city is very big and spaced out with a large market catering to locals and a posh avenue filled with hotels, cafes and restaurants catering to the better off called Paseo de Montejo.
Izamal (Mexico)
This small hamlet, although on my original itinerary, I decided to forego as it was unlikely I would have been able to find accommodation.
Chichén Itzá (Mexico)
Closed to tourists due to Covid-19, but fortunately I had visited it on a previous visit to Mexico.
Valladolid (Mexico)
A quick 2 hour coach journey for £7.30 heading west of Merida has me arriving at the quaint City of Valladolid. Once again I hadn't pre-booked any accommodation but was fortunate to find a dorm bed at a hostel I had seen online.
I quickly settled in and went for a walk around the city....it didn't take long — under two hours.
I spotted a nice looking restaurant, right on the main square which turned out to be a 4 star hotel. This ended up being my dinner venue for the evening sampling a Yucatan speciality, a meat & cheese stew accompanied by a few £2.50 cocktails.....I think the bill came to just under £14. Valladolid is a good base when visiting nearby Chichén Itzá. There is enough to do for a day or so, with the usual splattering of churches, squares, restaurants and artisan shops. The diagonal road known as Cale 41a makes for a pleasant walk up to the Convent of San Bernardino de Siena.
The Yucatan is famous for its cenotes, these are formed when their limestone surface collapses and forms an opening into underground river systems below. Going for a swim or snorkel inside these magical forms of nature are a major attraction, unfortunately the one in the centre of town called Zaci was closed.
Cancun (Mexico)
A mere 3 hours further east; Cancun is divided into two distinct areas.
Downtown which is on the mainland and The Hotel Zone which is on an island peninsula with its famous 2 mile strip of beautiful beaches and posh hotel resorts. Downtown Cancun, where I stayed initially, is a little shabby in places with lots of businesses permanently closed dragging down neighbourhoods, while other pockets seemingly thriving.
Cancun is known as the party capital of Mexico, so there are plenty of bars offering cheap drinks, a decent margarita can be had for as little as 74p. During my stay, I must admit, it was nice to be able to visit restaurants in a semi-normal environment. 
Around the Parque Las Palapas area, where many hostels are located; there are a string of taco and pancake stands together with locals selling local handicrafts and souvenirs. Not too far away is the indoor Mercado 28 which has an even bigger selection. A walk down to the Puerto Cancun Harbour was a hive of activity with new condo buildings being built and a large up-market shopping mall. A few days in the downtown area was enough for me however.
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