A summary of my travels between Jul-Dec 2020
This is a 6 month summary rather than my usual 3 month version as I have stayed in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico during a large part of the Covid-19 Plannedemic. I have in the main alternated my time between Playa del Carmen and Tulum which have been pretty normal compared to Stalin's US & Europe.
Isla Mujeres (Mexico)
Not on my original itinerary but I noticed it was just off the coast of Cancun, so I decided to make a short visit to this island. As luck would have it, it had only recently re-opened to tourism. I firstly stayed in the north part of the island which is known for its stunning North Beach (Playa Norte), but quickly found out that this was closed.
A semi-official local guy told me I could not walk on the beach and then literally a few minutes later, two local policeman walked past. Upon asking them if it was possible, they said it was okay but I could not go for a swim. I began my walk and could hear shouting, it was the original guy who came running after me and blocked my path on the beach, quickly followed by the two police officers.
The two officers quickly changed their tune and ordered me off the beach, I pointed to other beach goers that had come off a boat which they informed me were somehow exempt...the beginning of the crazy, non-sensical rules we have all been subject to.
Punta Sur is the most eastern point in Mexico and located at the southern tip of island. This is a great spot to visit for sunrise, sitting on the cliffs overlooking the ocean with waves lapping wildly.
Other activities include hiring a golf cart to get around as the island is not the easiest to navigate on foot in the scorching heat. Swimming/snorkeling with whale sharks or the underwater art museum off the coast are also hugely popular.
Cancun (Mexico)
I returned back to Cancun and decided to spend a luxurious weekend at a 5-star all-inclusive resort just north of downtown Cancun called Atelier Playa Mujeres.
I decided to treat myself for a change, oh what a treat it was. A huge beautiful room, gourmet food, wine & cocktails, all set in picturesque grounds right on the beach.....I will be returning at some point.
As I left the hotel, it quickly struck me that I was back to reality as I checked into a hostel at the north end of the hotel zone. As I suspected, this area was all about spending two weeks at a posh hotel for the annual vacation. A few expensive seafood restaurants are scattered around looking to pick up the occasional tourist that manages to leave their resort. The further south you head, the posher the hotels. The beach was open to all, so this made for a pleasant walk in the late afternoons.
There really wasn't much to do, as the club's and bars were shut but a scattering of restaurants remained open. Businesses were desparate for customers so hecklers were everywhere trying to drum up trade which was a little tiring. I probably wouldn't return to this area unless I was staying at an all-inclusive hotel and simply wanted to veg out.
Playa del Carmen (Mexico)
From the hotel zone in Cancun to get to Playa del Carmen cheaply, simply take the red bus R1 heading towards the Cancun downtown area and ask to be let off at either the ADO bus terminal or to travel like locals, on the opposite side of the street take a "collectivo" which is a minivan for £1.50 for the 1 hour journey south. You will be dropped off on the main road on the edge of town so either a 15 minute walk or taxi will take you to the centre of Playa del Carmen.
It had been over 25 years since I was last here, it was completely unrecognisable. The town had grown so much, with so many new condos, hotels and restaurants. Most of the restaurants & bars are around the 5th and 10th streets just up from the beach, between calle 1-45. Head further away from the beach and local restaurants are available at cheaper prices.
I ended up spending more than three and a half months here, staying in various studios apartments, where I had my own kitchen
in different parts of the town. I was always within a 10 minute walk of the beach where I would go for my 2-3 hour early morning walks. Five of those weeks I spent in a posh condominium with rooftop pool, sauna, cinema room and a gym. This was partly as a treat, but also I wanted to experience expat condo life that many foreigners choose to do.
Playa del Carmen is much more of a family orientated town, compared to its hipster sister Tulum. However, it also has a thriving digital nomad community as it's cheaper, has good internet and the beach is easily accessible rather than a bike or cab ride away.
Many will say that it's too touristy, which I would have to agree with. However, that does mean that there is a huge choice of restaurants and bars catering to all tastes and price points.
Tulum (Mexico)
Tulum is just one hour south of Playa del Carmen in a shared minibus for 50 pesos (£1.70) including tip. unlike Carmen, it is split into two areas, downtown and the beach area. Downtown is pretty non-descript with the major road cutting through its centre, with a decent selection of restaurants & bars.
The beach is divided into two distinct areas. The Hotel Zone where all the trendy beach bars,
restaurants, boutique hotels and shops are located. Playa Paraiso is the public beach area with a scattering of lower end beach bars and a view of the top of the famous nearby Mayan Ruin.
The beaches of Tulum are well over an hour's walk from the downtown area and so most choose to hire bikes instead. There are many normal and trendy beach bars, some of which have a minimum spend requirement of around 500 pesos (£19) per person.
For a less expenisive time at the posh beach area, head to either Cabanas Maalix or Taqueria La Eufemia. These two, down to earth beach clubs offer cheap food options and 1.2 litre bottles of local beer for 90-110 pesos (£4 ish). For a splurge Taboo Beach Club was the place to be seen. It's easily found as it has the loudest music when walking along the beach. Cocktails are around £10 a pop, while I had the best grilled squid of my life. Sit back and watch the trendy crowd order bottles of champagne & spirits with the usual high end club fireworks and fanfare.
Tulum is mainly known for the Mayan ruins, cenotes, stunning white-sand beaches and beach clubs.
Cenotes are sinkholes which are natural huge pools, some are open while others have open and hidden caves for snorkeling and scuba diving.
The ideal time to visit is between Nov-Dec, while Jan-Mar is technically the
winter season, it is also peak season when most Americans and Canadians visit and so prices rise dramatically..
It has a very different vibe to Playa del Carmen with a much more hippie feel and scene. Vegetarians are well catered for as well as those seeking artesanal jewellery and clothing. Tulum seems to be going in the direction of being more chic than its northern counterpart and has become known for its boutique hotels & shopping, yoga, fitness, restaurants and nightlife with Instagram a favourite among many.
Taxis are pretty expensive costing around 200-300 pesos (£8-12) from the downtown area to the posh beach clubs. A more affordable option is using the Collectivos which are minivans from the north side of Rotario Park for 15 pesos (50p). Most however hire a bicycle for around 150 pesos (£6) and others electric bikes or mopeds. Mopeds are pretty expensive to rent when compared to Asia. Most long-term digital nomads will buy one and sell upon leaving.
Tulum is similar to Chiang Mai or Bali in many ways but particularly in attracting a hipster and digital nomad crowd. It's also where I spent Christmas this year and where I cooked a Christmas dinner of sorts for old and new friends at one of the hostels I stayed at.
